Metro Plus
Bangalore
Chennai
Coimbatore
Delhi
Hyderabad
Kochi
Thiruvananthapuram
Visakhapatnam
Nizamuddin's chhatri and the water-carrier
CERTAIN PLACES exercise a strange charm on people, among them are temples, mosques, churches, shrines, tombs and even ordinary buildings, houses specially. The `chhatri' (canopy) of Nizamuddin Auliya's mausoleum is one such place, and to sit under it is an experience all its own.
How can one explain this magnetism? Perhaps places, like people, generate waves which influence the psyche. The Egyptians knew this and their pyramids are an example, so much so that even in modern therapy miniature pyramids are used to cure people of certain diseases. The Mayans, the Chinese and, of course, the ancient Hindus were all aware of the influence of places of things.
The Hebrews and early Christian mystics were also aware of this and even in the desert the Arabs were conscious of the charm exercised by certain spots. The dance of the dervishes originated there.
Mehboob Elahi or Beloved of God as Hazrat Nizamuddin was known, had a magnetic personality which drew people to him during his lifetime, and draws them even now after his death. For those seeking solace from the ills of life a visit to the shrine is an invigorating experience. The place once inhabited by the saint exercises a certain pull that is hard to resist.
The `chhatri' was built some 650 years ago and weighs about 500 kg. But after 300 years the pillars supporting it got worn out and Sheikh Farid, a nobleman of the time of Jehangir, presented four sandalwood pillars.
Sheikh Farid, some say, had come from Iran along with his parents and the family resided at Narela, near Delhi, for some years before moving on to Agra. There Farid found favour in Jehangir's court and was appointed Governor of Bengal. But he later forsook the life of a courtier and became a mendicant. The shrine of Shah Abul Ullah at Agra is believed by many to be his last resting place. It has a beautiful dome which was repaired in the beginning of the last century by a `mureed' from Hyderabad who used to come with his entourage every year for the Urs until his death.
The missing pillars of the `chhatri' of Nizamuddin's tomb created a furore. The Sajjadanashin said there was a valid reason for their replacement by marble pillars. The fact that the sandalwood ones are safe in the `toshakhana' of the shrine is heartening news. But one wonders where the original pillars are? Are they still preserved somewhere or were they disposed of after Sheikh Farid's offering 350 years ago?
Nizamuddin has other attraction too. If you enter the winding lanes of Basti Nizamuddin, you will come across a shop selling only waterskins (mashaqs). They hang from the walls to attract the customers - the `bhishtis' - who still carry water to many homes which do not have piped water supply. Those affected by the water shortage also employ them. A `mashaq' full of water costs Rs.15, but if the distance from the tap or well, from which the water it is filled, is more then the price goes up accordingly.
Waterskins are costly. A good one costs several hundred rupees, depending on its durability and quality. After it is bought the skin is treated for several days so that it might not perish. A liberal quantity of oil is applied daily and the skin kept full of water so that its retention power increases. Only when the water stops dripping is it brought into use.
It is surprising how the `mashaq' and the `bhishti' have survived so long. It was in primeval times that man learnt to store water in the skins of animals slaughtered for food. The medieval ages and the advent of Islam in the Arab countries, where water was scarce, lent a new dimension to the waterskin. Water being the source of all life was always considered precious and the man who brought it to one's door was akin to some one from `bahisht' (paradise) itself. That could be one reason for the origin of the word `bhishti'. The artistic and religious concept of `bahisht' is that of a place like Eden where cool streams flowed and one ceased to thirst physically and spiritually.
When the British came the `bhishti' was not neglected. As a matter of fact he found a place in the army and followed the troops from place to place. Kipling's Gangadin has passed into legend. Road construction opened one more avenue for the water-carrier. He was the one who watered the pathway before the coal tar was laid on it and again when the steamroller was put into action. Even now the `mashaq' hangs from the cabin of the driver as he hurtles about on the steamroller.
The `mashaq' has played a crucial role in wars too. During the Battle of Karbala the patriarchal warrior who galloped through the battlefield with a waterskin was shot at by the enemy and his `mashaq' burst, spilling the precious liquid which could have saved several lives in the desert. During 1857 the `bhishtis' played a gallant role in the defence of Delhi from the British, when they formed a water supply brigade for the rebel sepoys.
These water-carriers are still found in Nizamuddin and the Jama Masjid area. You can patronise them as they jingle their water-cups (katoras), promising you the coolest water in town. They even have a Sakka Gali of their own and memories of their one and only king in India, Nizam Sakka, the man who saved Humayun's life and as a consequence ruled for a day.
The `mashaq' shop being so close to Humayun's Tomb is perhaps a link with that incident which doesn't have a parallel in history.
Printer friendly
page
Send this article to Friends by
E-Mail
Metro Plus
Bangalore
Chennai
Coimbatore
Delhi
Hyderabad
Kochi
Thiruvananthapuram
Visakhapatnam
|
