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A new house for Monsieur Raymond
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A new pavilion around Monsieur Raymond's tomb revives Hyderabad's French connection and heralds a new era of heritage tourism in the Deccan, writes SACHIDANANDA MOHANTY.
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STANDING TALL: A remarkable work of reconstruction. — Photo: P. V. Sivakumar
IN A rare achievement , the A.P Government's Department of Tourism, Culture and Archaeology, recently joined hands with the `Alliance Francaise de Hyderabad', (the French Cultural centre) and concerned citizens to put up a show in visual and architectural terms marking a new era in cultural tourism. On April 14, 2003, the 200 year-old Raymond's Tomb, situated on top of a hillock at Mussaram Bag, Malakpet, got a facelift and a brand new pavilion that showcased before a select gathering of connoisseurs the remarkable exploits of buccaneer Frenchman, Generale Michel Joachim Marie Raymond. The ambassador of France to India, H.E., Monsieur Dominique Girad, in the presence of senior officials of the tourism and archaeology departments and an invited audience, dedicated the event to a new era of friendship between India and France. Both ambassador, Girad and tourism Secretary, Chandana Khan, vowed to make the newly furbished tomb and the open-air theatre around the Grecian pavilion, erected at a cost of Rs 4.5 lakhs, the centre of a new generation heritage tourism in the State. Tour operators, both local and international, especially French, they declared, would soon be enlisted to make the presently isolated hillock and the surrounding six acres the hub of bustling activity.
At the centre of this new dream plan is clearly the legendary character of J.M. Raymond whose remains have been stored since the last 200 years inside an obelisk holding up an urn on top.
Born on September 25, 1755 at Seri Gnse, Gascony, France, son of a merchant, Raymond set sail at the age of 20 in 1775, in a daring sea voyage, for the far away French settlement at Pondicherry. His idea, as he explained to his father, was to set up a merchant shop. Instead, he turned to the more exciting career of a freebooter and soldier of fortune. He joined the services of the Count de Lally and fought campaign against the British in the South. When Pondicherry fell, he left and joined the Army of Hyder Ali in Mysore, setting up a gunfoundry, manufacturing gunpowder and muskets.
After a brief stint with the French General Bussy, Raymond joined Nizam Ali Khan. From a small force of 300 soldiers, he built up an impressive army of 14,000 men under 124 European soldiers. He set up a gunfoundry, located near the present `Lepakshi Emporium' at Abids, and helped in the making of some of the finest guns, muskets and pistols in the region. He became a favourite of the Nizam who bestowed upon this enormously popular foreigner a vast jagir. He was also made `Amar-e-Jinsi' the controller of ordnance. An envious British Resident John Kirpatrick did his best to undermine Raymond who had an untimely and tragic end. The cause of his death has not been unravelled. According to some, he was poisoned; others believe he ended his life due to depression.
CULTURAL COLLABORATION: H.E. Dominique Girad, (5th from left) Christoph Faucher (4th from left) Chandana Khan 6th from left) and Bilkiz Alladin (2nd from left).
A grateful Nizam soon decreed that an annual fair or urs would be held as mark of remembrance to Raymond.
And so, every year up to 1940, on the anniversary of his death, lamps were lit, incense burnt and qawwali held in his memory. The Nizam would habitually send a box of `cheroots'. Over the years, Raymond's good nature and spirit of generosity drew the devout: Hindus and Muslims alike, and conferred sainthood upon him. He came to be known as Musa Ram and Musa Rahim! A tribute to Hyderabad's composite culture.
Raymond's tomb, recalls Bilkiz Alladin, winner of the prestigious French `Chevalier de L' Ordres des Arts et Lettres' in 1984, was fairly intact for a long time till 1968. Later, it suffered from local neglect and government apathy. According to Sudhakar Reddy, the contractor, who rebuilt the recent pavilion painstakingly, using a sole photograph as an architectural marker, the structure around the tomb had collapsed because of poor drainage system on the roof. Also, the old lime and mortar walls and pillars had developed cracks.
ANIMAL KINGDOM: The graves of Raymond's pet dog and horse.
Sudhakar, who has built parts of Salar Jung Museum's new extensions, did a remarkable job in four months time. He used lime and mortar with the help of the old design to lend the new structure an antique look. Alladin herself would have been happy if the old structure had not been pulled down. Even now, she suggests, that the old pillars could become part of a landscape garden which could in due course house a cafeteria and other amenities. Adds Chandana Khan: In the next eight months or so, the area would become a tourist complex with lighting, sound system and security.
A big credit for the new landmark should surely go to the dynamic director of the Alliance Francaise, Monsieur, Christoph Faucher and members of the society that supports the French cultural centre. Faucher and other members like Bilkiz Alladin and Kim Reddy have been upfront in spearheading recent efforts at renovation. Archaeology Commissioner Ram Laxman and Chandana Khan, on their part, have lent the necessary financial support.
HISTORY RECREATED: Sudhakar Reddy rebuilt the pavilion using a photograph as an architectural marker. — Photos: P.V. Sivakumar
Later in the evening, `Alliance' students put up an impressive audio-visual show directed by Bilkiz Alladin: Arpan, Ashish, Ajay, Marie, Indira, Smriti, Sharmila, Akbar, Akram, and Vishnuvardhini enacted with enthusiasm and flair the life and times of Raymond, the adventurer. The ambassador conferred a special award upon Marie, Christine, Rochemonteix of the local Marica School for her years of dedicated service to the cause of the poor and physically challenged students in the twin cities. The ITC Kakatiya Sheraton came forward, once again, with necessary support for the cultural cause. As the lights dimmed and the guests prepared to depart, one felt like saying: Vive la France Merci Beaucoup!
The author is a Professor of English Literature at the University of Hyderabad.
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