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Memorials to Delhi's glorious Gurus
EVERY YEAR Guru Nanak's birthday sees Delhi celebrating a second Diwali, with illuminations and crackers making it a lively evening and night, after a day of processions and langars. There are a number of places associated with the Sikh Gurus in the Capital, like Majnu-ka-Tila, where Guru Nanak is said to have made a disciple out of a Sufi who had discarded the world and come to be known as Majnu, dejected lover - not of a female beloved but of God. Later Guru Hargobind camped there and a gurdwara now marks the site.
In Chandni Chowk, Gurdwara Sis Ganj is the place where Guru Tegh Bahadur was beheaded during Aurangzeb's reign, and Gurdwara Rakabganj is the site of his cremation. Gurdwara Bangla Sahib was originally the place of Mirza Raja Jai Singh, which became the abode of Guru Hari Krishan. Moti Bagh Gurdwara marks the spot where Guru Gobind Singh camped and Gurdwara Mata Sundari the haveli where, after the Guru's death in 1708, Mata Sundari and Mata Sahib Devi continued to live. The former died in 1736 and the latter in 1738.
The most famous memorial to Guru Nanak in the Capital perhaps is Nanak Piao near Rana Pratap Bagh on G.T. Road. It was here that the Guru, in the course of his travels, camped and attracted hundreds. The place was then on the outskirts of Delhi and modes of conveyance were not what they are now. Still people flocked to see him. They came on horses, camels, elephants, tongas, ekkas, bullock carts and on foot, for Guru Nanak's fame had spread before him.
The Guru did not disappoint them. He was known not only in India but also in Sri Lanka, Burma, Afghanistan, Tibet, Iran, Iraq and Saudi Arabia. It was a time when people were emerging from the dark ages and trying to seek enlightenment. Hindus, Buddhists, Muslims were all eager to hear the message of love and spiritual attainment from this great votary of peace and non-violence.
The Guru came to Delhi in an age of saints like Kabir and Chaitanya Mahaprabhu. He was a lover of nature who saw the manifestations of God in all things around him and burst into poetry which came straight from the soul. His presence created ripples in the Capital of the Lodhi Sultans. Many learned maulvis and pandits also came to hear Guru Nanak and engage in debates with him. They went back convinced that he was a Guru in the true sense.
The place where Guru Nanak camped was a garden, both expansive and beautiful. His presence added to its charm. The discourses that the Guru gave continued for several days and when he left, people wept to part with him, the man who owned the garden among them. The garden was converted into a gurdwara known as Pau Sahib. Later it became famous as Nanak Piao. Even now it serves water to the thirsty from a 500-year-old well. Gurdwara Damdama Sahib, near Humayun's Tomb, stands on the spot where Guru Gobind Singh met Bahadur Shah-I in 1707. And in Mehrauli is the Gurdwara of Baba Banda Singh Bahadur, whose tale is worth relating.
Banda was originally a Yogi who was also a magician. When Guru Gobind Singh, the last of the Sikh Gurus, visited Nanded, he was accosted by the Yogi who tried to prove that he was superior. His name was Madho Das and some people regarded him as a man who could perform miracles. Madho Das tried his best to overawe the Guru. But all his efforts lasting several days, came to nought and even his occult powers could not help him. Acknowledging defeat he offered to become Gobind Singh's slave. The Guru lifted him up and embraced him. Madho Das became a Sikh and came to be known as Banda Singh. The Guru sent him all the way to Punjab where, along with other soldiers of the panth, he fought those who were persecuting the Sikhs. In 1709 Banda launched his campaign, taking over from Bhai Mani Singh, the high priest. He and his Tak Khalsa of 40,000 men subdued a vast part of Punjab after defeating Wazir Khan, Governor of Sirhind. Eventually Emperor Bahadur Shah-I himself led the royal forces against him and Banda had to retreat to the fort of Lohargarh and later to the hilly tract. From here he made lightning raids on the Moghuls and resisted all their attacks for five years. At last his valiant force was surrounded and he had to surrender in 1715. That was in December that year and he was brought to Delhi on the assurance that he would be treated with respect.
However, the promise was not kept by Emperor Farrukhsiyar, who put him in an iron cage. He was later tortured and killed, along with his little son. It is said the child's heart was wrenched out and Banda was made to swallow it. The gurdwara is a reminder of this brave man.
R.V. SMITH
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