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Rich and spicy clothing cues

There are no petite and small sizes in Julie Kagti's new range, which is for the mature man or woman



Julie Kagti's range is impeccably tailored for fall and a luxurious feel.

JULIE Kagti's invitation to the first show of her Sutra designer clothing makes an immediate impact. On at the trendy Cinnamon store till December 26, the card is rich with triangles of the silk fabric so typical of her — enhanced with kantha stitches, Japanese-style shibori tie-and-die, and strikingly Indian colours, such as aubergine, terracotta, royal blue and hot pink. It offers key cues to her range.

Kagti's current range is based on lightweight, weather-friendly Bangalore silks, impeccably tailored for fall and a luxurious feel. "These clothes are for the mature man or woman. I haven't included petite or small sizes this time," she explains. "And the colours are what I'd call my rich, spicy, Indian range."

Easy flair

Her designs are elegant, distinctive, combining the classic and the contemporary with easy flair, with prices ranging from Rs. 1,800 upwards. Take her lungi skirt, for instance. Done in variations of royal blue-purple, burnt orange and crimson, even maroon-black, tied in a knot to fit the individual waist, each has a contrasting under layer that flashes as the body moves. Very trendy. Her other skirts include a classic, tailored silhouette with slits, elasticised for comfort, each individually embellished with shibori patterning or contrasting patches or just a one-off trail of embroidery.

The Sutra jackets are equally stunning. Especially one that has a narrow, deep U-neck, waisted by three wooden buttons, then flaring to hug the body. In underwater blue, it's perfect for an evening out over formal trousers or a slim skirt. In rust, it's royal enough to wear to a wedding reception. In areca red, it's a contemporary answer to Ajji's saris.

Kagti offers unusual pants that are irresistible. With shibori trellises down the inner leg, they flare into a vertical panel of lush kantha work that calls attention to the gait and natural grace. What do they team best with? Perhaps Sutra's refined easy-necked, sleeveless tops with running stitches all over. Or cowl-necked tops in maroon or deepest blue, with an eye-catching broad embroidered panel at the waist, their sleeves calling attention to the false cuffs in contrasting colours. Very vivid, very bold. Even tops in figure-hugging bold patterning of, say blue and pink, that tie at the back for a perfect fit. Some even boast of running stitches that end in individual tassels for an "unfinished", chic look.

Her choices for women don't end there. Also on offer are striking stoles with her trademark embroidery and patches. As well as silk-topped slippers over bold, black leather bases, where the fabric toehold curves subtly into the pattern. Or silken evening bags that close with a delicate tie-string with beads.

Non-conformist

Kagti's menswear is equally non-conformist. Choosing from the same colour palette, she comes up with floppy-sleeved shirts that celebrate embroidered patches. Or open-collared variants that call attention to the zigzag shibori patterning all over the front. Or blue-black elegance that is more restrained.

The Sutra clothing range is a welcome cue to current trends. For it celebrates craft as much as it does style. More power to her fashion statements.

Cinnamon, 1 Walton Road, off Lavelle Road, can be contacted on 22229794.

ADITI DE

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