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ROAD LESS TRAVELLED

IN TROUBLED WATERS The tank in the palace

Eraniel at first sight appears like any other lush green village bordering Kerala. The beautiful landscape runs along a narrow meandering road. I sit back and enjoy the scenery. I am on this road in search of a mysterious 500-year-old palace. Before setting out I read a news report about how more than two years ago the city administration had approved of a contingency plan by INTACH (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage) to renovate the palace. Presuming that work must already be on in full swing, I chose this destination for a date with ancient history.

About 12 km off Nagercoil on Kanyakumari-Thiruvananthapuram Highway, I turn right to Thuckalaly and begin asking for directions to the Eraniel Palace. Surprisingly, the majority of the people shrug and direct me to the more famous Padmanabhapuram Palace, about five km away.

As I look around, I spot a milestone pointing to a narrower Iraniel-Karungal Road. I take the road. Half a kilometre down, I see the dilapidated office building of the Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments Department and the board in front states the office maintains the Eraniel Palace, a landmark in erstwhile Travancore. This administrative hub of Venad Kings may have been an architectural marvel in the past, but today it lies in ruins. Lack of maintenance and vandalism have damaged this once famous palace.

Standing on the road, it is in fact difficult to locate the palace given the wild vegetation all around. A passer-by casually tells me to be careful about snakes. But what scares me more is the palace looks haunted. In the absence of clear records, it is presumed that the Eraniel Palace was constructed during the reign of Vanchi Marthanda Varma of the Venad dynasty.

When Padmanabhapuram Palace was completed in 1601, King Ravi Varma Kulashekhara shifted the seat of power to Padmanabhapuram and Eraniel was maintained as the second capital. The palace apparently had four large entrances of which the front was the most impressive, imposingly done in teak.

Historians have somewhat identified three existing parts of the palace now – the main entrance, the main palace and the spring pavilion. Finding my way through plants,I reach a locked door. I squeeze myself through an opening on the right formed by collapsed walls. Once inside, I feel a bit composed.

There is a visitor’s hall and an inner hall. But everything is dark inside and smells damp.

Stone pillars with deities and different traditional patterns, lotus motifs hold the weak wooden roof. Few more steps, I see some carved wooden structures against stone pillars. Apparently most of these wooden structures that have braved the ravages of time and termites are now lost – squandered by people ignorant of their historical importance for construction of houses.

A beautifully carved cot in a single white stone and faded mural paintings on the walls and roof panels depicting scenes from Ramayana and historical events remind of a glorious royal past. There is a small tank meant for the royal bath. A secret tunnel for emergency exit and a Kaali temple adorns another side of the palace.

Eraniel Palace, which has witnessed many a decisive change in the history of Travancore lost its glory when Thiruvananthapuram emerged as the new capital of Venad kings. Though the palace is steeped in history and culture, I would recommend it to only those who are daring and adventurous.

SOMA BASU

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