On the spice route
FEHMIDA ZAKEER
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Marco Polo described Kannur as an "Emporium of Spices". So, it was no surprise when Francisco Almeida of Portugal chose this place to build a fort.
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The Kannur fort is a reminder of uneasy times when local princes plotted with outsiders to overthrow one another.
THE KANNUR FORT: silent sentinel to a turbulent past. PHOTO: S. MAHINSHA
A silent sentinel to a turbulent past, St. Angelo's Fort today soaks in sounds of delight as visitors walk along neatly laid out paths lined by dancing flowers and swaying trees. Situated in Kannur district of Kerala, the fort is a reminder of uneasy times when "native" princes plotted with outsiders to overthrow each other. Possession of the fort changed hands more than once denoting the power struggles of the time.
Alliance of acquisition
Vasco da Gama's expedition to Calicut in 1498 was influenced by Portuguese intention to break Arab monopoly on spice trade from the Malabar region. Conflicts between kingdoms along the coast made it easy for the Europeans to gain entry and establish forts at strategic locations paving the way for taking over trade and governance of the place.
Francisco D. Almeida was sent from Portugal with specific instructions to build forts at important locations, the fort at Kannur being one of them. Kannur, described as an "Emporium of Spices" by Marco Polo, held a special attraction. Almeida built St. Angelo's fort in Kannur in1505.
The ruling Kolathiris of North Malabar and the Zamorins of Calicut were always at loggerheads, not seeing eye to eye either politically or commercially. This rivalry turned to the advantage of the Portuguese who were keen to establish base in the land famed for its spices. While Kolathiri rulers befriended the visitors with an aim to establishing supremacy and wealth, the Portuguese had other ideas. They strengthened ties with "native" rulers and gained their trust.
After winning over the rulers, the Portuguese proceeded to further drive apart old foes by using religion and caste as weapons.
The success of their game plan resulted in a resounding victory for the Portuguese navy when it intercepted a fleet of ships sent by the Zamorins towards Kannur in 1506. This victory helped the Europeans gain control over Indian seas.
Though belatedly, the Zamorins and Kolathiris wised up to the tactics of the Portuguese and turned the tables on the visitors. A unified native army laid siege to the fort in 1564 but the Portuguese clung on and relinquished their hold on the fort finally to the Dutch in 1663.
A protected monument under the Archeological Survey of India, the Kannur fort as it is called now, provides a glimpse of its past glory to visitors.
Serene sanctuary
The Fort passed from the Dutch to the Arakkal royal family of Kannur in 1772. The British later took it over from the royal family in the year 1790 and established it as their military base. The triangular structure built of laterite, overlooks the beautiful Mappila Bay, a natural fishing harbour. A moat surrounds it on one side while ramparts on other sides fortify it. A sea wall protects the fort from sea. Cannons point seaward standing guard and you can see the ruins of the chapel, stables, barracks and magazine. A breathtaking view of the sea from the fort as palm-fringed shores meet grey sea over brown-black craggy chunks of rock.
