Across the glacier
J. RAMANAN
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Trekking across the Gangotri glacier to Nandanvan is not only exhilarating but also beyond all expectations.
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For the pilgrim and the trekker, the Gangotri glacier is overpowering and gorgeous in its mystic beauty.
Photo: J. Ramanan
High altitude idyll: Snow at the summit.
A glimpse of the indefatigable peaks in the Himalayas — a trek in the Garhwal Himalayas, across the Gangotri glacier to Gomukh, Tapovan and Nandanvan will satisfy all aspirations. For the pilgrim intoxicated with the myths and legends that surround the birth of the Bhagirathi Ganga and the temple, it is a wish fulfilled. The temple, built in the 18th century by General Amar Singh Thapa, is considered to be the holy spot where sage Bhagirath did penance for 5,500 year
s so that the divine river may come down from the heavens. For the trekker, this trail is exhilarating as it takes you over loose moraine, along waterfalls and streams, through pine and conifer forests and over mountains and through valleys.
Gangotri is the road head to Gomukh. It is an interesting and easy path, with the Bhagirathi flowing furiously below all along the mountainous track. The first halt for the night is at Chidbas. This is an idyllic camping spot where a patch of pines provides the greenery and shade. The sunrise and sunset, over the ice-capped mountains, is a spectacular sight.
Unforgettable sight
After a night’s rest at Chidbas, our ascent begins. Gomukh is the birthplace of the holiest of rivers and the Ganga emerges forcefully making her way through ice and snow. Over this snout is a huge wall of ice about 100 mts wide. The snow-capped peaks of the Bhagirathi I, II and III rise like horns while the glacier itself appears like the head of a cow and hence the name Gomukh meaning “face of a cow”. If this renders us breathless, there is yet another striking peak, the Shivling — a pinnacle of rock and ice that towers forbiddingly over the glacier. The path to Tapovan is full of moraine and very steep. There is an abundance of coloured stones — red, brown, yellow and orange. The waters from these glaciers feed the Gangotri watershed. The last walk up the steep slope bordering a waterfall can drain one of all strength, but the sight that waits, rejuvenates. The refreshing sight of the meadow with the small stream flowing by in the brilliance of the looming Shivling is unforgettable. A small lake rests on the top of a moraine filled part of the glacier. The trek to Nandanvan is treacherous as there is no beaten path. It involves a climb down 1000ft, across the Gangotri glacier with an abundance of crevices and boulders. The effort proves to be worthwhile because we are confronted with a beautiful meadow with a stream flowing close by. A frequent visitor to this meadow is the Himalayan Thar. Herds feast on the fresh, green grass and quench their thirst in the clear waters of the stream.
IN DISTRESS!
According to a recent study by the Geological Survey of India, the Gangotri glacier, source of the Ganga, is receding alarmingly and in a few hundred years will dry up considerably. But what is of great concern is the fact that the Gangotri glacier, situated in the Uttarkashi District of Garhwal Himalaya, has been receding at the rate of 10-30 metres per year over the second half of this century. While the rate of retreat was nominal between 1935 and 1956, it started to increase rapidly after that. In terms of the total area, the retreat was 2,530 square metres between 1935 and 1956. It increased by around two-and-a-half times during 1956 and 1962 and five times from 1962 to 1971. The last survey carried out a couple of years ago showed that the recession has increased over ten times from its original readings.
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